Chef of the Week: Norman Fenton of Cariño, Chicago
This week’s Chef of The Week feature spotlights Chef Norman Fenton, the creative force behind Cariño in Chicago, one of the city’s most exciting restaurants. In under a year, Chef Fenton led Cariño to earn a coveted MICHELIN Star in the 2024 Chicago Guide, an extraordinary achievement for a restaurant that only opened in late December 2023.
Known for blending Latin-inspired tasting menus with a playful taco omakase thread, Fenton has quickly made a name for himself with bold, innovative dishes like huitlacoche ravioli and queso “truffle” quesadilla. Drawing on his experiences in Mexico—including a stint at WILD in Tulum—he combines ancestral techniques, house-made masa, and global creativity to deliver one of Chicago’s most memorable dining experiences.
In this exclusive interview, Chef Fenton reflects on the whirlwind of opening Cariño, the impact of MICHELIN recognition, and the balance of tradition and modernity that defines his cooking today.
Cariño earned a One Star in the 2024 Chicago guide. What—if anything—changed in your creative process or ops after that recognition?
Honestly, not much has changed in how we approach our creative process since receiving the MICHELIN Star. If anything, it’s given our whole team a boost of confidence, reinforcing that we’re on the right track and inspiring us to keep exploring new dishes and experiences to share with our guests.
You opened in late December 2023 and had a star by year’s end 2024. Did that rapid trajectory create any pressure points for the team—and how did you manage them?
I think there are always pressure points in running a restaurant at the caliber of Cariño. But at the end of the day, we roll with the punches, adapt and grow as we go, and continually work to improve our skills and service.
Cariño bills itself as a Latin-inspired tasting menu with a taco omakase thread. How do you keep that playful omakase energy aligned with fine-dining pacing and polish?
We keep that fine-dining energy alive through the food, service, cocktails and wine program. The playfulness comes through in how we approach the food and service, and we let that unfold naturally throughout the meal. It’s about striking a balance, maintaining polish and precision, while still giving guests moments of surprise, fun, and personality that make the experience memorable.
Dishes like huitlacoche ravioli, queso “truffle” quesadilla, and a lamb tartare tostada al pastor have grabbed attention. Which one best captures Cariño’s voice right now, and why?
I’d have to say the huitlacoche ravioli best captures Cariño’s voice because it’s an innovative take on corn, which is such an important part of Latin American and Mexican cuisine. You see huitlacoche all over Mexico in simple dishes like quesadillas, but rarely inside pasta like ravioli. That twist really shows guests who we are, honoring tradition while presenting it in a new and unexpected way.
How did your stint leading WILD in Tulum rewire your palate—techniques, acidity, chiles, masa—and how is that showing up on the plate here?
Working at WILD specifically did not rewrite my palate, but my experiences in Mexico certainly did. I spent a lot of time cooking and eating with the natural influences of Mexico, whether at a taco stand or in someone’s home. Those are the experiences that inspired the food we create here at Cariño.
I utilize ingredients in the most ancestral ways possible, from sourcing heirloom corn from Mexico to grinding it ourselves and using only house-made masa in a variety of presentations and dishes. I also draw on the tradition of chiles, combining them with ingredients not usually found there to create something familiar yet new.
When you adapt regional Mexican preparations, where do you draw the line between faithful technique and modern interpretation?
I don’t think we really draw a hard line. We utilize ancient techniques to the utmost of our ability with certain ingredients. For example, we don’t take every salsa to a molcajete, because not every salsa needs one. And we don’t just buy masa flour and we hand-press each tortilla ourselves. So there isn’t a strict line; it’s about creating a modern expression that pulls from both ends of the spectrum. Some dishes lean more traditional, others more modern, and some are a blend of both, but all are done with intention and respect.
What does R&D look like for a sequence of tacos—structure, fat/acid balance, tortilla choices—so each bite lands with a distinct narrative?
We always start by making sure the tortilla itself is used in a thoughtful way. For example, if we want to impart flavor into the tortilla, like curry, guajillo chile, or epazote, we use it as a vessel to elevate the experience, since we have the ability to do that with our in-house masa program. From there, we make sure each taco has about five to six flavor notes, balanced with key elements like acid, crunch, and herbs. The exception is with a classic taco, then the focus is simply on making sure it’s rich and flavorful, letting simplicity shine.
Metrics that matter: Beyond press, which signals tell you a dish or menu is resonating—repeat-guest rate by theme, RevPASH, pairings uptake, guest notes?
When it comes to seeing how a dish works, we usually play with dishes at our Taco Omakase and get feedback directly from those guests. We also look to our repeat clientele, some of whom have come 10–12 times, and they let us know what they like and don’t like. On top of that, we keep an eye on online reviews on Google and Reddit so we can stay in touch with what people are saying.
For home cooks: One technique (no special gear) that instantly elevates tacos at home—tortilla handling, salsa balance, or finishing salts/acids?
The most important part of a home taco is the tortilla, since it’s the base of it all. Try to get it as close as possible to fresh tortillas by using really good masa from a local tortillería and practicing your hand-pressing technique, while paying attention to moisture levels, salt, lard, or whatever you prefer. At the end of the day, everything goes on the tortilla first.
Under-the-radar classics: Name a couple of Mexican dishes you love that are lesser known in the U.S.—what makes them special, and how would you introduce them to first-time diners?
There are tons of things from the Yucatán region that I love. One is Relleno Negro, which is turkey cooked in a smoky, spiced black sauce made from toasted chiles, spices, and charred tortillas. We’d introduce a dish like this the same way we already do—using our modern approach to this type of cuisine.
Looking ahead: What’s a creative goal for Cariño over the next year—something guests haven’t seen from you yet?
For us, it’s really about keeping our menu moving forward, practicing over and over to get everything as precise as we can. From there, we can add more dishes, try out different techniques, and show guests what we’re excited about.
Featured image courtesy of Kelly Sandos.
Chef Norman Fenton | Instagram
Cariño, Chicago | Instagram
4662 N Broadway, Chicago, IL 60640
