Chef of the Week: Chef Jonathan Brincat of NONI, Malta
Born and raised in Malta, Chef Jonathan Brincat grew up surrounded by the flavors and rituals of his hometown — early inspirations that continue to shape his work today. After honing his skills abroad and experiencing how proudly other countries celebrated their cuisines, he returned home determined to elevate Maltese food with the same respect. This passion gave rise to his philosophy of “New Maltese Cuisine,” where heritage and memory meet modern technique.
At NONI, the Michelin-starred restaurant he runs with his sister Ritienne, Brincat crafts dishes that honor Malta’s culinary roots while giving them fresh expression — from playful desserts inspired by childhood tea rituals to seafood and pasta plates layered with Mediterranean, North African, and European influences. With a deep commitment to seasonality, storytelling, and authenticity, Chef Brincat has become a leading voice in Malta’s dining scene, showing how local tradition can shine brightly on the global stage.
Check out this exclusive Chef’s Pencil interview with Chef Jonathan Brincat below.
You were born and raised in Malta. Can you tell us about your earliest food memories, and how they’ve shaped your culinary identity?
We’ve always been a family that loved food. Inspiration was everywhere — from my hometown streets to local traditions that taught me what it means to cook with heart. Those flavors, smells, and rituals still guide everything I do at NONI.
What led you to pursue a career in fine dining, and how did your experiences abroad influence your approach at NONI?
Working abroad opened my eyes. I saw how proudly other countries celebrated their cuisine, while in Malta, I felt we didn’t always give our own food the same respect. That realisation pushed me to dedicate myself to creating what I call “New Maltese Cuisine” — a way to honour our roots while giving them the value they deserve.
Working abroad, I saw how proudly other countries celebrated their cuisine, while in Malta, I felt we didn’t always give our own food the same respect.
Your cuisine bridges Maltese tradition and contemporary technique. How do you find that balance between heritage and innovation?
For me, it starts with respect. I never want to lose the soul of a dish. We take something familiar, understand its story, and then reimagine it with technique that enhances rather than replaces tradition. Innovation at NONI isn’t about reinventing — it’s about elevating what’s already ours.
You run NONI with your sister Ritienne. What’s it like working together, and how do your roles complement each other?
When I’m losing it, Ritienne steps in. When she’s losing it, I do. It’s a bit like a seesaw — somehow, we keep each other balanced. Doing this together means everything to me. Without her, none of this would be the same.
Can you share the story behind a dish that came from unexpected inspiration?
Our dessert “Te fit-Tazza” is exactly that. It’s inspired by the Maltese ritual of drinking strong tea with condensed milk in glass cups. It’s a simple memory, but it carries so much nostalgia. We turned that into a dessert that feels playful, emotional, and deeply Maltese — it’s more than a dish; it’s a moment on a plate.
Maltese cuisine is rich with Mediterranean, North African, and European influences. How do you interpret and reimagine these diverse flavours?
Malta is a crossroads, and our food reflects that. At NONI, we don’t shy away from those layers, we embrace them. We look at what’s familiar, take inspiration from the past, and build on it with precision and intent, always asking ourselves, “How do we make this ours?”
Beyond fine dining, what are a few must-try foods or food experiences for someone visiting Malta for the first time?
Pastizzi, for sure. And local rabbit — our national dish. Both have inspired dishes on our menu because they’re not just food; they’re part of our culture and how we grew up.
What are some of your favourite locally sourced ingredients to work with, and how do you highlight them on the menu?
Tomatoes. Maltese tomatoes are unlike any other — so good I had them tattooed on my arm. They’re a perfect example of how simple ingredients, when treated with care, can tell the story of where you come from.
Is there a dish on your current menu that feels especially personal or meaningful to you?
All of them. Our menu changes constantly, and every dish tells a story — of memory, of place, of the people who inspire us. That’s what makes it personal.
NONI earned its first Michelin star five years ago. What did that recognition mean to you and your team?
I’ve always believed I had something to offer, but I can be hard on myself. That star was like a tap on the shoulder saying, “You’re on the right track.” For me and the team, it wasn’t just recognition; it was encouragement to keep going.
What’s been the key to maintaining that star year after year—and how has it shaped your evolution as a chef?
Giving it your heart. You can’t do this for the money or the fame. We treat every guest like
family, and when you do that, the rest falls into place naturally.
What’s something people might not realise about the day-to-day life of a Michelin starred chef?
It’s not glamorous. It’s discipline, sacrifice, and a lot of unseen hours. But it’s also passion — that’s what keeps the fire lit, even on the hard days.
Are there any culinary trends or movements you’re excited about—or cautious of?
I don’t really believe in trends. I believe in passion — because passion never goes out of fashion. That’s what drives me, and it’s what I hope diners feel when they come to NONI.
Is there a trend you think is overhyped or fading out?
Anything that’s more about looks than flavour. Food has to taste good — that’s the only trend that lasts.
What’s one local ingredient that’s always in your pantry or mise en place?
Olive oil. Maltese olive oil is finally getting the recognition it deserves, with producers winning awards worldwide. Years ago, you’d taste some “house-made” olive oil that could knock you out — now, it’s one of the highlights of our pantry.
A dish you crave when you’re off duty?
Ħobża biż-żejt. Just a simple Maltese bread with tomatoes, olive oil, and the sea nearby — that’s happiness to me.
