Restaurateur of the Week: Aji Akokomi of Akoko, London
Few restaurateurs have done more to reshape the global perception of West African cuisine than Aji Akokomi. Through Akoko, the Michelin-starred restaurant he founded in London, Akokomi has helped bring the depth, sophistication, and regional diversity of West African cooking into the fine-dining spotlight. Combining traditional techniques such as fermentation, fire cooking, and spice layering with modern precision and presentation, Akoko has become one of the most influential African restaurants in Europe’s contemporary dining scene.
In this week’s Restaurateur of the Week feature, Aji Akokomi reflects on the journey behind Akoko, the challenges of introducing West African cuisine to fine dining audiences, and the philosophy that drives both Akoko and his more casual concept, Akara. From sourcing ingredients and preserving authenticity to redefining how diners experience African food, Akokomi shares thoughtful insights into building a restaurant that is not only critically acclaimed, but culturally meaningful.
1. You founded Akoko with a clear vision to elevate West African cuisine in a fine-dining context. What gap did you see in London’s food scene that you felt compelled to fill?
When I looked at London’s dining scene, I felt there was still very little representation of West African cuisine at that level, despite the depth, sophistication and regional diversity of the food culture. There were brilliant home kitchens and community restaurants, but very few spaces presenting those flavours and traditions through the lens of contemporary fine dining. I wanted to create somewhere that approached West African cuisine with the same care, precision and ambition often afforded to other culinary traditions, while staying true to its identity.
Akoko has never been about reinventing the cuisine. It is about creating a platform where those stories, ingredients and techniques can be experienced in a different setting and understood in a broader context.
2. Akoko has played a major role in redefining how West African cuisine is perceived globally. What are the biggest misconceptions you’ve worked to challenge?
One of the biggest misconceptions is that West African food is one dimensional or overly informal. In reality, it’s incredibly layered, regional and technique-driven. There’s a huge depth of flavour built through fermentation, smoking, spice blending and slow cooking traditions that have existed for generations.
One of the biggest misconceptions is that West African food is one dimensional or overly informal.
Another misconception is that refinement somehow means moving away from authenticity. For me, refinement is simply care and attention to detail where the essence of the cuisine remains the same. We’re just presenting it in a way that allows people to experience its complexity more clearly.
3. Your journey into hospitality is quite unique. How did your background shape the concept and philosophy behind Akoko?
My background shaped Akoko entirely because I came into hospitality from a place of curiosity and connection rather than convention. Before opening the restaurant, I travelled across West Africa spending time in kitchens, bakeries, markets and local communities, learning directly from people and understanding the cultural significance behind ingredients and dishes.
Those experiences taught me that food is never just about the plate. It’s about generosity, memory, storytelling and hospitality. Akoko was built around those values. I wanted the restaurant to feel thoughtful and considered, but also warm and welcoming.
4. What does “modern West African cuisine” mean to you and how do you balance innovation with tradition?
To me, modern West African cuisine means allowing the cuisine to evolve naturally while staying rooted in its foundations. Tradition is the starting point. The flavours, techniques and cultural references remain intact, but there’s space to refine, reinterpret and present them differently.
Some dishes at Akoko are very close to traditional preparations, while others take inspiration from a memory or ingredient and move in a more contemporary direction. The key is honesty as innovation only works when there’s a genuine understanding and respect for what came before it.
5. How do you approach building a menu that remains authentic while also meeting the expectations of fine dining and Michelin-level execution?
For me, authenticity isn’t about strict replication, it’s about integrity. The menu has to reflect the flavours, techniques and emotions that make the cuisine what it is. Fine dining simply asks for consistency, precision and attention to detail, and those things are not at odds with West African cooking. We spend a lot of time thinking about balance, texture and presentation, but flavour always comes first.
At Akoko, every dish is designed to tell a story, whether that’s through the use of spice, a cooking technique or the history of a particular region. The aim is to create an experience that feels immersive while remaining grounded in something genuine.
6. Sourcing authentic West African ingredients in the UK can be challenging. How have you built your supply chain, and has it influenced the evolution of your menu?
Some ingredients are easier to find now than they were a few years ago, but there are still challenges around consistency, seasonality and quality. We place great importance on sourcing local produce wherever possible and are fortunate to have access to exceptional British ingredients. At the same time, we work hard to ensure the flavours and techniques remain rooted in West African cooking.
In many ways, it’s the spices, layering and cooking methods that define the cuisine rather than a single ingredient. That balance has naturally shaped the evolution of the menu and encouraged creativity while keeping the identity of the food intact.
7. Akoko is known for its use of fire, fermentation, and bold flavors. Which ingredient or technique best defines your cooking philosophy?
I think fermentation probably comes closest because it speaks to patience, depth and transformation. Across West Africa, fermentation has always played a central role in cooking, whether through iru, ogi, fermented cassava or spice pastes. It creates complexity and layers of flavour in a very natural way. More broadly, though, I’m drawn to techniques that carry history and intention. Fire cooking, smoking and preserving all create flavours that feel instinctive and deeply rooted in memory.
8. Since opening, what has been the most defining moment for Akoko—either creatively or from a recognition standpoint?
Receiving the Michelin star was a defining moment because it recognised not only the work of the team, but also West African cuisine on one of the world’s biggest culinary stages.
Receiving the Michelin star was obviously a defining moment because it recognised not only the work of the team, but also West African cuisine on one of the world’s biggest culinary stages. It felt significant beyond the restaurant itself. But creatively, some of the most meaningful moments have actually been much quieter – seeing guests connect emotionally with the food, particularly people from West African backgrounds who feel represented in a different way. Those moments remind you why the work matters.
9. What were the biggest challenges you faced in bringing Akoko to life, and what lessons did you take from that journey?
One of the biggest challenges was convincing people that there was space for West African cuisine within fine dining at this level. There were very few reference points when we started, so a lot of it required patience and belief. Building the right team, sourcing ingredients and opening during a dificult period for hospitality also brought its own pressures. The biggest lesson was the importance of clarity of vision. If you understand why you’re building something and remain consistent in that purpose, people eventually connect with it.
10. You’ve expanded with Akara, a more casual concept. How does Akara differ from Akoko in terms of philosophy and experience, and what role does it play in your broader vision for West African cuisine?
Akara is more relaxed and immediate in its expression, but the philosophy is very connected to Akoko. It’s centred around the idea of everyday West African cooking and communal eating. The food is more casual, more spontaneous and designed to fit naturally into the rhythm of Borough Market and Borough Yards.
Where Akoko is more immersive and tasting-menu-led, Akara is about accessibility and energy. Together, the two restaurants show different sides of West African cuisine and help broaden people’s understanding of how varied and adaptable it can be.
11. For someone new to West African food, which dishes or flavors should they experience first to truly understand the cuisine?
Jollof rice is probably the most recognisable starting point because it captures so much about West African cooking – depth, spice, layering and regional identity. Beyond that, I’d encourage people to experience dishes that highlight smoke, fermentation and pepper.
Suya is a great example because it’s bold but very balanced. I also think seafood dishes are important, particularly those from the Senegambia region, where acidity and freshness play such a central role. The key flavours across the cuisine are warmth, spice, umami and brightness all working together.
12. Looking ahead, what’s next for you and for Akoko? Do you see expansion, new concepts, or a deeper evolution of what you’ve already built?
Right now, the focus is on continuing to evolve thoughtfully rather than growing for the sake of growth. There’s still so much more to explore within West African cuisine and within what Akoko and Akara can become. I’m interested in deepening the work we’re already doing, refining the guest experience, strengthening relationships with producers and continuing to mentor the next generation of chefs. Any future concepts would need to come from a genuine place and a clear sense of purpose.
Aji Akokomi | Instagram
Akoko | Instagram
21 Berners St, London W1T 3LP, United Kingdom
Featured Photo credit: John Carey
