Chef of the Week: Kostas Papathanasiou of Lita Merylebone, London

1. You’ve recently stepped into the role of Culinary Director at Lita. What was your vision for the restaurant when you accepted the position? 

My vision was to refine and strengthen what was already there, not to rush and change it. Lita had a clear identity: a neighbourhood restaurant with strong standards and a loyal following. I wanted to build on that by bringing more consistency, more clarity to the food, and a stronger sense of purpose in everything we do. To make it feel focused, more confident, while keeping the warmth and accessibility that define it.

It was about evolution, not reinvention.

2. Your career spans some of the world’s most demanding kitchens – from The Fat Duck to  Restaurant Frantzén. What is the most important lesson from Frantzén that you’ve brought to Lita to maintain a Michelin-level standard? 

The most important lesson is consistency. At that level, it’s not about one great service, it’s about delivering the same standard every single day, without compromise.

The way a kitchen operates is just as important as what goes on the plate. That discipline is what allows creativity to exist at a high level.

I also took a lot from the Swedish ethos, the focus on simplicity, clarity, and restraint. Clean, modern cooking where every element has a purpose and nothing is there by accident. Behind that, there is strong  structure. Clear systems, organisation, and communication. The way a kitchen operates is just as important as what goes on the plate. That discipline is what allows creativity to exist at a high level.

That’s what I’ve brought to Lita: consistency, simplicity, and a kitchen built on structure  and intent.

3. When taking over an existing restaurant, how do you balance respecting its foundations with making it unmistakably your own? 

You start by listening and understanding what already works. Every restaurant has its own identity, its own rhythm, and its own relationship with its guests and that should be respected.

For me, it’s never about imposing change for the sake of it. It’s about refining, strengthening, and bringing clarity. You keep the foundations that people connect with, and you build on them with your own perspective. Over time, your voice comes through  naturally in the details, in the food, in the way the kitchen operates.

It’s not about making it yours overnight, but about evolving it in a way that feels honest. That’s how you create something that is both familiar and new.

4. You’ve worked across Greece, London, Singapore, and Stockholm. How have differences in fine-dining culture and guest expectations shaped your approach to flavour and leadership? 

Each place shaped me in a different way. Greece gave me a respect for ingredients, seasonality, and honest flavour. It taught me that food doesn’t need to be complicated to be meaningful.

London taught me pace and standards. It’s a demanding environment, with diverse guests and high expectations. You learn quickly that consistency and adaptability are essential.

Singapore sharpened my understanding of flavour. It’s bold, direct, and unapologetic. Guests know what they want, and that pushes you to be clear and confident in your cooking.

Stockholm brought discipline and restraint. A more minimal, precise approach where simplicity is not a shortcut, but the result of control.

As a leader, all of this comes together. I value clarity, structure, and consistency, but also energy and openness. You have to adapt to your team, understand your guests, and create an environment where high standards feel natural, not forced. That balance defines how I cook and how I lead today.

I’m always asking: does this need more, or is it already enough?

Hospitality is also deeply rooted in that culture. It’s instinctive rather than formal. It’s about generosity, making people feel comfortable, and creating a sense of ease.

At the same time, my Greek heritage in my cooking is not nostalgic. I don’t try to recreate the past. It’s forward-looking using those foundations, but expressing them in a more refined, modern way.

So even when the cooking becomes more precise, the thinking behind it remains simple: respect the ingredient, cook with clarity, and serve with warmth.

6. Cooking over fire is famously unpredictable. How does your background in highly precise kitchens help you manage the instinctive nature of live-fire cooking? 

For me, it comes down to understanding cooking at its core technique, precision, and how ingredients react.

Working in highly disciplined kitchens teaches you how to read products, how they behave under different conditions, and how to get the best out of them. That knowledge doesn’t change, whether you’re using a controlled environment or cooking over fire.

Fire is often seen as instinctive, but in reality, it follows the same principles. If you understand heat, timing, and the ingredient itself, you can approach it with the same level of control.

So in that sense, cooking over fire is not a completely different way of cooking it’s just a different medium. The thinking behind it remains the same.

7. Mediterranean cuisine is often associated with simplicity. At a Michelin level, what does “simplicity” truly require? 

Simplicity at that level is the hardest thing to achieve.

When a dish is simple, there’s nowhere to hide. Every ingredient has to be at its best, every element perfectly balanced, every detail precise. It requires discipline, restraint, and a deep understanding of flavour.

In Mediterranean cooking, simplicity isn’t about doing less, it’s about doing only what is necessary, and doing it well. Knowing when to stop is just as important as knowing what to add.

At a Michelin level, simplicity demands confidence. You have to trust the ingredient, trust your technique, and resist the temptation to overwork the dish.

That’s what makes it powerful.

8. Is there a Greek or Mediterranean ingredient you feel is still misunderstood or underused in London? 

Greek cheese is still quite misunderstood.

Most people associate it only with feta, but there is a much wider range: graviera, metsovone, galotyri – each with its own character, texture, and depth. They can be just as complex and versatile as more established European cheeses, but they’re not used in the same way or given the same attention.

For me, Greek cheeses have a real place in a modern kitchen. They bring salinity, richness, and structure, but also a sense of identity. The challenge is to use them with the same precision and respect you would give to any great ingredient.

There’s a lot more to explore there.

9. What’s one quiet technique you rely on that transforms a dish without diners necessarily noticing? 

For me, it’s seasoning but more importantly, how and when you season. I think about seasoning as something you build, not something you add at the end. Every stage matters from the base to the final adjustment. It’s about understanding how salt, acidity, and fat interact and how they evolve as the dish develops.

If it’s done properly, no one notices it directly. But they feel that the dish tastes balanced, complete, and natural. That’s the difference between something being good and something being right.

10. As Culinary Director, what is the one value you insist your team embodies every day? 

Skills can be taught, but attitude defines how someone works, how they respond, and how they grow.

11. What do you want guests to feel when they leave Lita? 

I want them to feel comfortable, satisfied, and taken care of. Not just that they had a great meal, but that they enjoyed the whole experience, the atmosphere, the service, the time they spent with us. Something that feels natural, not forced. And most importantly, I want them to want to come back.

12. For home cooks wanting to bring Mediterranean flavours into their kitchen, what’s one simple technique or ingredient they should start with? 

Start with good olive oil and how you use it. Don’t just think of it as a finishing touch: use it properly. Cook with it gently, dress vegetables while they’re still warm so they absorb it, and use it to carry flavour with a bit of acidity, like lemon or vinegar.

It’s simple, but it changes everything. When the oil is good and used with intention, the whole dish feels more complete.

13. Fine dining aside, what lesser-known Greek dishes would you recommend to someone wanting to truly understand the soul of the cuisine? 

I would start with something like fasolada or gigantes. These are very simple dishes, but they represent  everything seasonality, lightness, patience, and care. They’re humble, but full of depth.

Then something like ladera vegetables cooked slowly in olive oil and tomato sauce like green beans or okra. It’s not about technique, it’s about understanding the ingredient and letting it speak.

And maybe revithada, slow-cooked chickpeas, baked gently for hours. Again, very simple, but incredibly satisfying when done properly.

These dishes are not about presentation or complexity. They’re about time, balance, and respect for the ingredient. That’s where the soul of Greek cooking really is.

14. Looking ahead, where do you hope to take Lita over the next few years? 

The focus is on evolution, continuing to refine what we do, strengthen our identity, and push consistency and quality every day. At the same time, we’re also looking at opportunities to expand Lita beyond the UK.

But for me, growth has to be thoughtful. It’s not about scale, it’s about maintaining the same standards, the same philosophy, and the same sense of hospitality wherever we go. If we can grow while staying true to what Lita represents, then that’s the right  direction.

Chef Kostas Papathanasiou | Instagram
Lita Marylebone |
7-9 Paddington St, London W1U 5QH, United Kingdom

Featured image by Jess Ellis Courtesy of Lita