Chef of the Week: Chef Phillip Foss of EL Ideas, Chicago
For over a decade, Chef Phillip Foss has been redefining fine dining on his own terms at EL Ideas, his Michelin-starred BYOB restaurant tucked away on a dead-end street in Chicago. What began as a seeming constraint has become a signature strength: an intimate, interactive dining room where guests are encouraged to wander into the kitchen and connect directly with the chefs preparing their meal.
Known for playful signatures like French fries and a frosty alongside refined dishes such as seared foie gras with summer tomato jam or duck à l’orange with lavender and fines herbs, Foss blends nostalgia, creativity, and collaboration in equal measure. At EL Ideas, no one on the culinary crew is “just a cook”—each member develops their own dishes and presents them to guests, creating a dining experience that’s as personal as it is memorable. Check out our exclusive Chef’s Pencil interview with Chef Foss below.
You’ve run a Michelin-starred, BYOB restaurant on a dead-end street for years. Which of those constraints has turned into the biggest competitive advantage—and how?
While I have no interest in selling our cooking short, our greatest niche is the level of intimacy and interaction we share with our guests by allowing them to get up at their leisure and visit with us in the kitchen.
What’s the one dish that best captures the EL Ideas philosophy right now—and why?
As much as I love our new dishes, I don’t think anything could ever capture our philosophy better than our signature French fries and frosty. Its origin story, the nostalgia it elicits, and the interactive and combustible nature of the presentation is basically us in a milkshake glass.
What’s an ingredient or technique you’re unexpectedly obsessed with at the moment?
It’s the middle of summer, so I’ve been back on a freeze pop kick. Prosciutto and melon is the flavor of the moment.
What’s one hospitality detail at EL Ideas that guests rarely notice but you obsess over?
Well pressed tablecloths. It takes so much time and unrecognized effort, yet a couple of wrinkles makes the whole room look like you don’t care.
What story about EL Ideas do you think hasn’t been told well yet—and how would you tell it?
Nobody on our culinary crew is considered just a cook — each of us develops our own ideas and presents them directly to the guest.
The frequency and manner in which we change our menu. Also, nobody on our culinary crew is considered just a cook — each of us develops our own ideas and presents them directly to the guest. As such, everyone is accountable not only to our guests, but also to each other.
Favorite recent collab or purveyor story—who’s pushing you in a good way?
We did a recent late night taco pop up with Chef Norman Fenton of Michelin starred Cariño here in Chicago. I wouldn’t say I felt pushed in any particular way, but seeing a kitchen in action at such a high level is always inspiring.
EL Ideas has held a MICHELIN star for over a decade. What routines or guardrails help you stay ahead in a dynamic, high-pressure industry?
The only way to deal with the pressure is to not feed into it.
The only way to deal with the pressure is to not feed into it. I take breaks during the workday, and when I’m not cooking I focus on hobbies. Culinary ideas come and go in the process, and then it’s just about getting into the kitchen and working them out. It may seem more complicated than it is, but I don’t wake up trying to maintain our Michelin star. I just want to cook the food I believe we’re capable of cooking.
A belief you held five years ago about fine dining that you’ve since changed your mind about.
I never believed the restaurant industry was a stable lifestyle, but I never could have believed how fast the dining world crumbled as it did during the pandemic. Even the best restaurants are about as stable as a house of cards.
You’ve written about stepping back from social media—a powerful yet potentially toxic marketing channel for restaurants. What prompted the reset, and what habits keep you from getting pulled back in?
I had a really poor relationship with my ego at the end of the day. It still isn’t great by any means, but I was comparing myself too much to many of my colleagues. I was losing who I was in the process of trying to be the person I was trying to portray, and all in the name of getting likes and reposts. I know I’ve lost diners to my inactivity, but I’ve reclaimed my sanity and sense of self, so the fear of losing that keeps me away.
When you mentor young cooks, what skill (non-culinary) do you prioritize first—and why?
Care and listening. Season properly, listen well, and show respect for ingredients and the process. Food is highly malleable and even controllable, but it’s important to be aware that it was once living, and it should be treated with great care and respect now that it isn’t.
Business nuts-and-bolts: which KPI do you watch like a hawk that most chefs ignore?
The economy and the state of the market are key indicators of disposable income, but there really should be an almanac for restaurants the way there is for farmers. In this industry, very little is truly predictable.
What’s your ultimate comfort food after a long service—and does any part of that make its way into EL Ideas?
I get to snack all night while preparing dinner for our guests, so I rarely eat at home after work. That said, apples dipped in peanut butter is one of my favorites, and we have spun that concept into a dessert dish.
El Ideas check-in: what’s special about cooking here right now, and what do diners still underestimate about the scene?
I feel the most special aspect of El is the accountability of each member of our team. Each chef comes up with their own dishes and announces it to the dining room. I believe many people feel it is all my show, but it is truly a collaborative effort from our entire culinary team.
If someone only has one night in Chicago, what’s your non-EL Ideas bite they shouldn’t miss?
The signature cheeseburger and a root beer float from Au Cheval.
Give home cooks one pro move (under three minutes, no special gear) that will noticeably improve a weeknight plate.
Season according to the flavor profile by tasting, not just by the amount of salt called for in a recipe.
Chef Phillip Foss
EL Ideas | Instagram | Facebook
Editor’s note: Some of the responses have been lightly edited for clarity and brevity.
