Chef of the Week: Chef Jeong-In Hwang of San Ho Won, San Francisco

1. You spent time honing your skills in French kitchens and worked closely with Chef Corey Lee at the three-Michelin-starred Benu. What was the most significant technical lesson you took from that refined, fine-dining environment that you now apply to the seemingly more casual setting of San Ho Won?

Although San Ho Won is a casual dining setting, our kitchen work maintains a high level of refinement. The techniques and systems I learned at Benu have been instrumental in building a strong foundation for our cuisine and restaurant here at San Ho Won. Consistency is paramount in any kitchen, and to that end, we established a system at San Ho Won that is similar to what I experienced at Benu.

Consistency is paramount in any kitchen, and to that end, we established a system at San Ho Won that is similar to what I experienced at Benu

2. After years immersed in French and modern Western cuisine, what was the defining moment or realization that made you pivot and decide, “The best thing I can do is make delicious Korean food”? Was this a professional or a personal moment?

I spent my twenties immersed in fine dining French cuisine, where I honed my skills and eventually became a senior chef under Chef Pierre Gagnaire. While I deeply enjoyed my time there, I eventually realized there were cultural nuances within French cuisine that I, as a non-French chef, might never fully grasp or master.

During this period, I also felt a strong desire to cook and present Korean food to others. The turning point was seeing Chef Corey’s sensational opening of Benu, the first modern fine-dining restaurant with a significant Asian influence. Witnessing his success deeply inspired me and fueled my passion to showcase the cuisine of my own country.

3. How has the global rise of Korean culture (K-pop, film, beauty, etc.) influenced the way diners abroad experience Korean cuisine, especially in fine dining?

When I first started working overseas, I found it challenging to find Korean restaurants, even in major cities like London, Hong Kong, or Paris. I often had to travel to specific areas to find quality Korean food.

Over the past 15 years, the global rise of Korean culture, including K-pop, film, and beauty, has significantly influenced the way diners abroad experience Korean cuisine. This increased interest in K-culture has created a broader audience and greater demand, which in turn has enabled my generation of chefs, who trained and worked in professional kitchens, to successfully open and introduce fine dining Korean restaurants to a wider public.

4. San Ho Won is a collaboration with Corey Lee. What does the creative relationship look like between you two? How do you balance your day-to-day execution with his overarching vision for the restaurant group?

Having worked at Benu for nearly ten years, I have developed a strong understanding of Chef Corey’s culinary philosophy. Additionally, my vision for Korean cuisine has been significantly shaped and established during my time at Benu. As a result, we share a very similar taste and vision for Korean food.

When creating dishes, we collaborate closely by sharing ideas, defining concepts, developing and testing dishes together, and providing mutual feedback for revisions. This collaborative approach ensures that we are both aligned with the overarching vision for the restaurant group while I manage the day-to-day execution.

5. The restaurant successfully bridges humble Korean home cooking (jjigae, banchan) with Michelin-level technique. How do you decide which elements of a traditional dish must remain authentic, and which are opportunities for refinement using modern ingredients or methods?

When we create a dish, the most important factors are the flavor profile and the ensemble of high-quality ingredients. Especially here in California, I prefer to use top-quality local vegetables, seafood, and meat. Adapting to this environment naturally creates a different dish, but it remains rooted in the essence of the original.

I also consider the palate of our diverse audience. While traditional Korean food is delicious, some dishes can be challenging for non-Korean diners to approach, so we adjust the flavor, texture, spiciness, etc.

For example, Tteokbokki (spicy rice cake stew) traditionally uses rice cakes made with 100% rice flour, though in modern Korea, wheat flour is also sometimes used. To appeal to the local taste, we use a mixture of half rice and half wheat flour. This gives the rice cake both a satisfyingly chewy texture and a softer, paste-like texture that is more familiar to our local audience.

As you mentioned, Banchan are a central and unique component of Korean cuisine. Our approach is deeply rooted in seasonality; we select the best available ingredients each season to create the rotation, ensuring they are fresh and complement the flavor profile of our charcoal-grilled meats and other dishes. We change the Banchan regularly based on this seasonality.

Kimchi is also essential, and we strive to offer a minimum of five types of seasonal kimchi to introduce to our customers. For all our Kimchi, we maintain a very traditional preparation method while refining our recipes to achieve the most consistent flavor, texture, and ripeness.

7. San Ho Won is known for unique creations like the Kimchi Pozole (a Mexican-Korean fusion). What was the inspiration behind that dish, and how do you ensure that such cross-cultural concepts still feel rooted in a fundamentally Korean spirit?

At San Ho Won, there are a few dishes with small twists, and the Kimchi Pozole is a great example of this. Geographically, we are located in the Mission District, which has a large Mexican population. Their traditional, hearty Pozole reminded us of Kimchi Jjigae, which is considered one of Korea’s most homey and comforting dishes. We realized that a homey soup base gives a great texture, and that the garnishes typically served with Pozole would also pair perfectly with Kimchi Jjigae.

Ultimately, while these cross-cultural concepts need to be fun, they must also be delicious and memorable.

8. The Egg Soufflé with spicy anchovy broth is a famously executed dish at San Ho Won. What meticulous technique is required to achieve that perfect, cloud-like texture while maintaining the savory depth of the broth beneath it?

Through extensive testing, we determined that having the ideal ratio of egg to stock is critical: too much egg results in a dense soufflé, while too much stock hinders its rise. In addition to having the right ratio, perfect execution demands constant stirring, careful heat control, and precise timing.

Although the ingredients are simple and the dish appears modest, considerable effort and dedication from our chefs are invested into each soufflé.

9. You state that due to the long processes of Korean food—aging, fermenting, and marinating—it’s difficult to accommodate many dietary restrictions. Can you explain the importance of time and fermentation in your kitchen and why that lengthy process vital for the integrity of San Ho Won’s flavor?

These lengthy processes, specifically the fermentation and aging of ingredients like Jang (soy sauce, pastes), pickles, and Kimchi, are the heart of Korean cuisine. Fermentation and aging takes time, and without them, the integrity and depth of their flavors cannot be achieved.

We cannot take shortcuts with these preparations. Our commitment is to always introduce the best version of our food, which necessitates honoring these vital, time-intensive traditions.

10. San Ho Won has been fully booked since opening, making reservations notoriously difficult to get. How do you manage the immense pressure and expectations from the public while maintaining the high-quality control and focus required to keep the Michelin star?

Our chefs approach their work with utmost seriousness, consistently striving to serve the best possible rendition of each dish. As you mentioned, overseeing a highly sought-after restaurant presents considerable challenges; however, I am fortunate to lead an exceptional team that shares the common objective of culinary excellence.

I firmly believe that the collective effort of every individual on our team makes this possible and allows us to retain the prestigious Michelin star.

11. For readers who are new to Korean food, what top traditional dishes (not necessarily fine dining) should they try first—and what should they pay attention to when tasting them?

My initial thought is Korean BBQ. It seems the most approachable for any audience and is incredibly tasty. The experience is centered on the combination of grilled meat, sauces, Ssam (wraps), and Banchan. I believe the focus should be on the experience as a whole.

12. For home cooks — one technique (no special gear required) that instantly elevates their cooking.

When it comes to cooking techniques, I believe seasoning is the most crucial element. Achieving the right flavor profile requires tasting and gradually adjusting the seasoning, rather than adding a large amount all at once. Appropriate seasoning accounts for approximately 80% of a dish’s success.

Appropriate seasoning accounts for approximately 80% of a dish’s success.

The remaining factors include choosing the right quality of ingredients, followed by the specific technical details that a chef can execute.