Chef of the Week: Chef Ben Wilkinson of The Pass, South Lodge
From the kitchens of London to the Lake District and now the South Downs, Ben Wilkinson has built a reputation as one of the UK’s most exciting modern British chefs. Now leading the kitchen at The Pass at South Lodge, Wilkinson combines classical French technique with modern precision and a deep respect for seasonal British produce. His cooking has already earned Michelin-star recognition both in Cumbria and Sussex, cementing his place among a new generation of chefs redefining contemporary British fine dining.
In this week’s Chef of the Week feature, Ben Wilkinson reflects on his journey from pot wash to Michelin-starred chef, the influence of Sussex terroir on his cooking, and the balance between classical foundations and modern gastronomy. From wild turbot paired with Sussex sparkling wine to the realities of running a Michelin-starred kitchen, Wilkinson shares thoughtful insights into leadership, discipline, and the evolving future of British cuisine.
1. Can you tell us a bit about your journey into the kitchen – what first drew you to cooking?
I was working part time as a pot-wash while finishing the last year of school. I didn’t really have a plan for what to do next and my Dad suggested an apprenticeship, so I asked at work and they set me up with a college course and a full time job. For the second year of college, I moved to a small restaurant that was focused on fine-dining classic cooking. The chefs there had all worked in London and after hearing their stories, I decided to move there once I finished college.
2. Was there a defining moment when you knew you wanted to pursue this professionally?
Once I’d made the commitment to move to London! It was at this point that I couldn’t turn back. It was hard to leave my friends and family, but I have to jump in with both feet. I got a job at the Hilton on Park Lane and got placed into the fine dining restaurant on the top floor. I totally committed myself to work and spent long hours in the kitchen so there was no going back!
3. You made a high-profile move from the Lake District to the South Downs. How has the change in terroir and local Sussex produce influenced your menu compared to your time at The Cottage in the Wood?
Cumbria has a very unique restaurant scene. Simon Rogan has great influence over the area with many of the restaurants and local chefs taking inspiration from his style and produce suppliers. At The Cottage there was a heavy focus on foraging and wild produce, so we had to adapt dishes to suit that style. However, my background is in classical French cuisine, which lends itself to the diverse food scene in Sussex. So, I feel more at home cooking in my preferred style and have freer access to more varied ingredients that complement the dishes currently on the menu at The Pass.
4. How would you describe the culinary philosophy at The Pass?
We use the highest quality produce, cooked with respect to classic cuisine, but make use of modern techniques. We’re a gastronomic experience that puts our guests right in the heart of the action. They can see the full kitchen team as we prep their dishes – this keeps us on our toes!
5. What ingredients are you most excited to work with right now?
The season changing into spring and summer is always a relief with some fresh vegetables and fruit starting to arrive. English outdoor asparagus is such a welcome addition to the menu. I’m always looking ahead with menu planning so I’m thinking about late summer vegetables and stone fruits already!
6. Is there a technique or dish that you feel best represents your cooking style?
Turbot with English Sparkling Wine – it’s such a classic combination. We get beautiful locally landed wild turbot from day boats out of Newhaven Harbour, and use a very precise low temperature oven to cook it super gently so it’s amazingly juicy. Then the sauce, we make a turbot stock with an extraction method so it’s super fresh tasting with real deep flavour. Then using local English Sparkling Wine to replace the classical champagne in the sauce.
The English really gives the French some competition in sparkling wine these days and Sussex is leading the way.
The English really gives the French some competition in sparkling wine these days and Sussex is leading the way! It’s all about high-quality ingredients cooked with modern techniques to get really clean clear flavours, with a massive nod of respect to classic cooking.
7. Having held a star in both the Lakes and now in Sussex, does the pressure of the Michelin star influence your creative process, or is it something you’re able to tune out over time?
I think it’s changed for me over the 6 years I’ve held a star. Initially the pressure felt huge. The star brings a level of attention to you that isn’t there before, and that’s hard to adjust to. Over time that fades and you can take some confidence from retaining the star a couple of times.
Moving to The Pass was a big decision, as it felt huge to walk away from the star at The Cottage. But we achieved a star at The Pass within 6 months of arriving and that was a huge confidence boost and it’s something I’m super proud of.
8. How would you describe your leadership style in the kitchen?
I used to be a micro-manager and wanted to oversee every aspect. But now we’re in a really great place and I fully trust my team, I hope they’d say I’ve chilled out a bit!
9. What qualities do you look for when building your team?
When hiring new team members, a key skillset I look for is attitude and dedication. I respond really well to candidates who understand personal discipline, have got a commitment to their craft and hold themselves to the highest standards.
11. How do you see the UK culinary scene evolving in the next few years?
I think we’re already seeing a shift in diners recognising quality and locally grown produce. I’m hoping we’ll see more restaurants following suit and carefully selecting ingredients and supply chains.
12. For a young chef starting out today who dreams of running a Michelin-starred kitchen, what is the “unfiltered” truth about the sacrifices required to get there?
You have to put in the work early in your career to reap benefits later. I’ve had to make sacrifices in my personal life in order to get to where I am now. When my friends were partying in their 20s, I was grafting late hours in the kitchen. But I now run a successful Michelin star restaurant and kitchen team at one of the leading hotels in Sussex. I also met my wife here and for that I’m forever grateful.
13. What’s one simple tip or technique that home cooks can use to instantly improve their cooking?
Use more acid – vinegar, citrus juice, raw wine, verjus. Balance flavour using acid, fat, sweet, salt. Acid is something most home cooks are missing out.
Chef Ben Wilkinson | Instagram
The Pass
South Lodge Hotel, Brighton Rd, Crabtree, Horsham RH13 6PS, United Kingdom
