Chef of the Week: Chef Aaron Chang of Nōksu, New York

1. Noksu has reached its 2.5-year milestone. As you step in as Executive Chef, what  was the first foundational change you wanted to implement to signal this new era?  

Stepping into the role of Executive Chef, my first priority was to fully embody the name and identity of Nōksu. The space itself reflects a compelling contrast sleek, modern design layered with natural elements like wood textures. The name Nōksu, meaning a clear stream flowing from the mountains, became a guiding principle for me.

In the context of New York’s concrete landscape, I wanted our cuisine to reflect that same sense of flow, something organic, intentional, and distinctly our own.

2. Your new menu officially launched this week. If a diner could understand your  culinary soul through just one dish on this tasting menu, which would it be and why?  

I put a lot of love and care into every dish, so it’s honestly hard to choose just one. Ideally, I want guests to experience the menu as a whole and feel the flow from start to finish, that’s where my story really comes through. I’m trying to showcase my Korean background while also reflecting my experience growing up in New York, with all its diversity and modern influences. So you’ll see Korean flavors, but sometimes used in ways that might feel new or unexpected.

If I had to pick one dish, though, it would be the first bite, the shrimp tartare. It’s mixed with a deep shrimp aioli made from the shells and combined with gochujang, then balanced with fresh cucumber and lime. I think it really captures that mix of tradition and a more modern, personal approach.

3. Korean and Nordic cuisines may seem worlds apart, yet both share a deep  reverence for fermentation, preservation, and seasonal purity. Where do these two  cultures intersect most beautifully in your kitchen?  

For me, the intersection between Korean and Nordic cuisines is most evident in their shared language of fermentation and preservation.

On our current spring menu, that dialogue comes through clearly in the dry-aged duck course. I’m incorporating lacto-fermented elements alongside traditional Korean cheong techniques. Fermented garlic to complement grilled eggplant, sea buckthorn cheong to bring depth to carrots cooked with butter and gochugaru, and a lacto-fermented blueberry purée for acidity and lift.

It’s a composition that brings together multiple preservation methods in a way that feels cohesive and intentional.

4. Is there a dish on the current menu that best represents your direction at Noksu— and why?  

If I had to choose one dish that represents my direction, it would be the tuna with Omija. Omija, often referred to as the “five-flavor berry” in Korean cuisine, carries a unique balance of sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and pungent notes, yet it remains relatively unfamiliar in the U.S.

In this dish, it’s complemented by beets, pistachios, and an avocado, creating a composition that feels both refreshing and layered. For me, it’s a way of showcasing a deeply traditional ingredient while presenting it in a more contemporary and accessible way.

5. Korean cuisine is often bold and expressive, while Scandinavian style tends toward  minimalism. How do you find the equilibrium between high-impact flavor and  aesthetic restraint?  

That was honestly one of my biggest concerns at the beginning: how to balance bold Korean flavors with the lighter, more minimal Scandinavian style. In the end, it really came down to a lot of testing and refining until things started to feel natural and harmonious.

My biggest concerns at the beginning were how to balance bold Korean flavors with the lighter, more minimal Scandinavian style.

I also realized that if I tried to force both styles into a single dish, it could easily become overwhelming. So instead, I took a step back and focused on balance across the entire menu. Some dishes lean more Korean in flavor or technique, while others bring in more Nordic elements. It’s really about creating contrast and flow throughout the experience rather than trying to do everything at once on one plate.

6. Working at institutions like Atera and Saga sets the bar incredibly high. What is the  most important lesson regarding “service excellence” or “kitchen discipline” that  you’ve carried with you to the Noksu team?  

7. What’s something diners might not fully realize about the amount of work or  discipline behind a single service at Noksu?  

I think one thing diners might not fully realize is just how much we’re working with such a small space. What you see when you walk into Nōksu is the entire kitchen with just a small countertop, one induction burner, and one convection oven. That’s really it.

Because of that, we run with a very tight team, and everyone has to be completely in sync from start to finish. There are so many components and details in each dish, sometimes I’m amazed at how we’re able to execute it all in that environment without a separate prep kitchen.

I’m really lucky to have such a strong team behind me, I definitely couldn’t do it alone. They’re the reason it all comes together every night.

8. Are there any Korean ingredients you feel are still underappreciated in fine dining  that you’re excited to highlight?  

I think there are definitely a few, but one that stands out to me is Omija. It’s something I mentioned earlier, it’s known as the “five-flavor berry” because it has sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and even slightly pungent notes all in one.

That can make it a little challenging to work with, but at the same time, that’s what makes it so exciting. I think it has a lot of potential in fine dining, and I’d love to see more chefs experiment with it and push it in new directions.

9. Fine dining continues to evolve. What do you think diners are looking for today that  might be diƯerent from a few years ago? 

I think fine dining has evolved significantly, especially with the influence of technology making global culinary trends more accessible than ever. There’s a constant exchange of ideas, and that’s been incredibly exciting for the industry.

That said, I don’t think the core expectation from diners has changed as much as we might think. Ultimately, it still comes down to flavor. How a dish resonates and connects with them. Post-COVID, I do think guests have developed a deeper appreciation for food, particularly through their own experiences with home cooking. There’s a greater awareness and respect for the craft, but at the same time, diners continue to seek out flavors that feel new, engaging, and memorable.

10. For home cooks looking to explore Korean cuisine, what’s one technique or  ingredient that can make a noticeable diƯerence in their cooking? 

For home cooks getting into Korean food, I think using good-quality gochujang, doenjang, and ganjang is definitely important. But if there’s one thing that can really elevate a dish, it’s using high-quality perilla oil or sesame oil.

That finishing touch can completely change the aroma and how the dish tastes. It really brings everything together and can make something simple feel much more special.

11. What advice would you give to young chefs who want to work at the level of fine  dining you represent today?  

My biggest advice is that there are no shortcuts. Take the time to learn everything you can from the chefs you work with. I think a lot of young cooks learn one dish and feel like they’ve learned everything, so they move on to the next restaurant every six months or a year.

12. Now that the new menu has launched, how do you see Noksu evolving over the next  year? 

I think the current version of Nōksu already has a very distinct identity. It isn’t boxed into traditional Korean cuisine, but it still carries that core essence through its flavors and ingredients. As I continue to grow with the restaurant, my goal is for the menu to become even more refined and intentional, creating an experience where guests come not just to eat, but to engage with and understand our vision.

Chef Aaron Chang | Instagram
Nōksu | Instagram
49 W 32nd St, New York, NY 10001