Everything you need to know about Romanian wines
A recent history of Romanian Wines
The view of Romania producing high-quality wines may seem, for many at least, surprising. This is especially so if we take into account its relatively recent history of almost 50 years of communism and the chaos of the ‘transition production’ of the early ’90s when everything was focused on the production of low-quality sweet wines and the cult of hybrid grape varieties.
During the communist period, wine production was centralized around IAS (Întreprindere Agricolă de Stat) or SAE (State Agricultural Enterprise) and wine-growing centers such as Jidvei, Cotnari or Murfatlar, which each managed thousands of hectares. The only exceptions were the research centers where high-quality wines were still produced, created either for export or for the high up members of the Communist Party.
In communist Romania, the emphasis was on production rather than quality. Most vineyards consisted of varieties with high productivity and resistance such as Muscat Ottonel, Chasselas, or Fetească Regală. Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot were chosen for red wines. From these were obtained medium sweet or sweet wines because the sugar could hide certain faults in the wine.
Obviously, most wines were of questionable quality and low in alcohol (11-12% ABV). And most were destined for export to the USSR, and the story is that no matter the grape variety all bottles were labeled and shipped as Chardonnay, being Russia’s favorite at the time.
However, there were some positive achievements during the communist period, such as obtaining memorable grape varieties such as Novac, Şarbă and Crâmpoşia Selecţionată (Selected Crâmpoşie), a superior version of the old Crâmpoşie.
Romanian Wine Industry After 1990
The transition to democracy took place after December 1989, when Romania began a new chapter in its modern history. Of course, the return to private property has been a long and often chaotic process, especially for the wine industry.
Land and real estate restitution, as well as planning a strategy to ‘repair’ the inherited reputation of poor quality wines were challenges that the new generation of wine producers faced. Basically, the evolution of Romanian wine after the ’90s was slow but achieved some spectacular results over the years, like the maturation of a Fetească Negră with a good ageing potential.
And as a result of Romania’s accession to the European Union in 2007, things changed significantly for the better. With the help of European funds more than 40,000 hectares were replanted with new grapevines, replacing the old vineyards with hybrid varieties. And the story continues today with the more than 250 producers who educate the consumer, rewrite tradition, explore new grape varieties, and create new labels and new stories.
Things have clearly changed radically for the better. The birth of new wineries with a vision of making high-quality wines, focused either on rendering the typicity of the variety and region, or on experiments with very good results.
In other words, Romania is currently an atypical case worldwide, but also a classic example of countries from Eastern Europe that went through the communist period, countries that are currently going through a revolutionary leap in quality and diversity after a very long period of mediocrity, anonymity, and lack of consumer education.
And to understand today’s metamorphosis, we must understand our history.
Romanian grape varieties and wine production
Romania is becoming known internationally through a terroir with extraordinary potential to cultivate local and international varieties. According to the latest statistics, following the conversion of vineyards, the current total area is about 191,000 hectares, an area that gives local wineries an extremely diverse terroir for growing a multitude of varieties, some of them unique.
In terms of productivity, according to OIV (Organisation Internationale de la vigne et du vin) statistics, Romania officially produces approximately 5.5 million hectoliters, ranking 7th in Europe and 13th in the world. And the most popular and planted variety (in all vineyards) is Feteasca Regală.
Feteasca Regală is a white variety, the most recently discovered from the ‘Fetească family’, from which dry, young, fresh aromatic white wines are made, with predominant aromas of green and citrus apples. Due to its acidity, this variety can be used in the production of sparkling wines and spirits. And it is a variety that can be grows well in all of Romania’s vineyards.
Fetească Albă is a white grape variety from which elegant dry white wines can be created. It has high acidity, a friendly texture, and very good minerality, with well-defined aromas of white flowers, citrus, and hay. Wines with an aging potential of 3-4 years can also be obtained.
Crâmpoşia is a white pre-phylloxera grape variety, with origins in ancient times and is emblematic of the Drăgăşani vineyard. It can be vinified as a single grape or in a blend. It is recognizable by its acidity, freshness, and minerality. It is recommended that it is consumed young and it impresses with delicious aromas of pears, citrus fruits, and yellow cherries.
Şarbă is a variety made from the crossing of two varieties, Tămâioasă Românească and Italian Riesling, which transforms it into an essential aromatic exponent in the vineyard of Moldova. It is distinguished by a memorable floral character with notes of roses, acacia, elderflowers, and basil. It is a grape from which dry and dessert wines can be made.
Plăvaie stands out as a variety cultivated almost exclusively in the area of southern Moldova, where Şarbă is also cultivated. The wines obtained from Plăvaie are best consumed in the first two years of life and are distinguished by freshness, minerality, and intense aromas of grapefruit, pomelo, and lime.
Tămâioasa Românească is a synonym of Romanian hospitality as it is a ‘descendant’ of the Muscat family from Greece, adapted in the Romanian viticultural area with spectacular results. This aromatic variety is distinguished by unmistakable aromas of acacia flowers, honeycomb, and discreet notes of basil. Considered a variety for white dessert wines with ageing potential par excellence, lately a lot of fresh, dry wines have been created.
Grasa de Cotnari is for many a legend and a symbol of the glorious moments in the history of Moldova. The wines created from this variety impress with their fruity and aromatic character. Vinified over the centuries as a white dessert wine with grapes touched by botrytis (noble rot), in the style of Tokaji wines, it impresses with its unique aromas of acacia honey, honeycomb, candied apricots, almonds, ripe apricots, and quince.
The latest trend is Grasa de Cotnari in the dry version, which initially was greeted with controversy due to the balance between the aromatic profile and acidity.
Zghihara de Huşi is a very old grape variety, cultivated almost exclusively in the village that gives it its name. It is distinguished by its increased acidity that pleasantly ‘tightens’, minerality, and well-defined aromas of green apples, pears, and citrus fruits.
Busuioaca de Bohotin is a curious variety for many, thanks to a peel that prevents the winemaker creating a red wine with an intense color and full-bodied structure, which is why it is created as a medium-sweet or sweet rosé wine. In recent years, wineries in Romania have created a dry, fresh Busuioacă de Bohotin with delicate aromas in the style of Provence.
It is distinguished by the aromas of rose petals, basil, and red forest fruits.
Băbească Neagră is a local pre-phylloxera variety, dating back to the 14th century on Romanian vineyards. It is known for its red, ruby, medium-bodied wines, medium tannins, and velvety texture. In general, these wines have an aging potential of 3-5 years, but can also be consumed young.
Fetească Neagră is a local variety whose clusters could be placed on the flag of Romanian wine. It is famous for its aromas of prunes, cherries, berries, dark chocolate, and oak (if matured in barrique). It can be vinified both as rosé and as red wine. It is a variety from which wines with long ageing potential can be made.
Romanian vineyards also abound with international white and red grape varieties such as Aligoté, Muscat Ottonel, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay, which impress with their fruitiness, typical aromas, and winemaking style that is close to perfection.
The terroir of Romanian vineyards is so diverse that even pretentious red grapes such as Pinot Noir can be planted, and in Transylvania it enjoys a climate similar to that in Burgundy. At the same time, grapes like Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Shiraz enjoy a climate perfect for both rosé and red wines in the vineyards of Dealu Mare, Drăgăşani, Miniş-Măderat or Mehedinţi.
Romanian vineyards and reference wines
The grapevine area in Romania is very diverse, each region has essentially an autonomous climate, and it is all worth discovering. Local vineyards can generally be divided into seven geographical areas. Legislatively, the viticultural areas in Romania are divided into three classifications: DOC, IG (or GI), and varietal wine. DOC wines (Denumire de Origine Controlată’) or wines with controlled designation of origin present certain guarantees to the consumer.
It is an appellation that guarantees the selection of grapes, their yield, origin, minimum sugar limit at harvest, production technology, and in some cases the style of wine-making. GI (Geographical Indication) indicates a high-quality standard, such as a DOC wine, the only difference is that the grape harvesting area is more extensive. The wines that are neither DOC or the GI are called varietal wines.
This does not mean that varietal wines are necessarily of poorer quality, simply that the area of origin of the grapes is not so strictly regulated. However, there have been exceptions when a varietal wine produced pleasant surprises, obtaining a much better score in blind tastings compared to other DOC or GI wines.
Romania is a country with a temperate-continental climate, with many points in common with France in terms of latitude and altitude. The Carpathian Mountains, which surround Transylvania, moderate the hot and arid summers specific to this type of climate.
Banat
Photo credit: http://cramelerecas.ro/
From west to east, the wines and gastronomy of Romania are worth tasting starting with Banat and especially with wines of DOC Recaş, where, the legend has it, Bacchus was born. It is the smallest vineyard in Romania and is distinguished by a temperate continental climate with Mediterranean influences and soils such as clay, sand, and limestone.
Recas. Throughout history, the minority populations of Swabians and Hungarians have marked the production of wines, and their heritage is still felt by the preservation of Cadarcă, Blaufränkisch, and Furmint.
Also grapes like Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, and Fetească Neagră are planted here with surprisingly good results.
North of Banat is the Crişana region, with the famous DOC Miniş-Măderat and DOC Crişana wines. A region that stands out for its continental climate, hot and relatively dry summers, and cold winters.
Photo credit: https://revino.ro
The soil is famous for the predominant volcanic rocks and for the high concentration of iron, which helps the red varieties such as Cadarcă, Feteasca Neagră, and Cabernet Sauvignon a lot. In terms of white varieties, the region is famous for its high acidity white wines such as Mustoasa de Măderat and sparkling wines.
Oltenia
To the southwest of the Carpathian Mountains is the Oltenia region, where there are several important vineyards. Perhaps the most famous of all is Drăgăşani, recently revitalized by the planting of specific varieties such as Novac, Negru de Drăgăşani and Crâmpoşie Selecţionată (Selected Crâmpoşie). Other DOC regions are Segarcea and Mehedinţi, known for the production of aromatic white wines and complex red wines with a very high ageing potential.
Going to the East, we find the famous Dealu Mare vineyard in the former historical province of Wallachia, which is the Romanian synonym for Bordeaux and Tuscany. The region stretches for over 65 km over Prahova and Buzău counties. And the high altitude and warm summers and mild autumns make it probably the greatest region for the production of red wines. Varieties such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, and especially Feteasca Neagră are masterfully created.
At the same time, the Dealu Mare vineyard is famous for the production of white dessert wines, especially from the Tămâioasă Românească and Muscat Ottonel.
Photo credit: https://www.wildventure.ro
Photo credit: Vitis-Metamorfosis
Moldova
The region of Moldova (not to be confused with the neighboring Republic of Moldova) is perhaps the most complex and diversified local wine-growing area, totaling a whole series of microclimates and DOC and GI areas and comprising more than 30% of the entire cultivable grapevine area in Romania.
In the north lies the famous DOC Cotnari region, dedicated to white wines with memorable grape varieties such as Grasă de Cotnari, Frâncuşă, Fetească Albă, Fetească Regală, and Tămâioasă Românească. Descending to the south, the map of Moldova is full of DOC regions imprinted in the DNA of Romanians, such as Huşi, where Zghihară comes from, or Nicoreşti, where Băbeasca Neagră comes from, as well as the vineyards of Coteşti, Odobeşti and Panciu, famous for the local varieties Şarbă, Plăvaie, but also for sparkling wines and spirits.
The legacy of 12th century Germans can still be seen today in Transylvania, a region located at an altitude of 460m above sea level. The cool and relatively rainy climate helps to produce fresh white wines with high acidity. These conditions are also highly valued by producers of sparkling wines or spirits. At the same time, the region is famous for the production of rosé wines or red wines like Pinot Noir.
Dobrogea
Near the Black Sea is the Dobrogea region where you can taste wines from some of the most famous local DOCs: Babadag, Sarica-Niculiţel and Murfatlar. The area is famous for its sunny climate and sparse rainfall. The red wines produced here are juicy, with velvety tannins and are highly aromatic, while the wines produced from Aligoté and Chardonnay are famous for their freshness, minerality, and elegance. Also, the unique climate here favors the practice of biodynamic viticulture.
Best Romanian wines
After a long period of absence and anonymity, the best word to describe the ‘new wave’ of Romanian wines is kaleidoscope. A kaleidoscope of flavors, bouquets, styles, and colors that combine perfectly with different moods or dishes. Which is why we will try to make a selection of wines that best reproduce the terroir of region of origin and the fantasy of their creators.
Budureasca, Premium Fumé (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris)
Budureasca Fumé is an assemblage that opens in the glass with an intense golden yellow color and a rich nose full of sweet vanilla notes, mixed hints of peaches and quince. The body is robust, with a velvety structure, complemented by a medium acidity and good minerality.
The aftertaste is long, with final notes of citrus and oak. Consumed at a temperature of 8-10°C, it goes very well with salads, seafood, or baked chicken breast with sour cream.
Casa de Vinuri Cotnari, Colocviu la Moscova, Grasă de Cotnari
Grasa de Cotnari from the Colocviu range ‘breaks’ the established tradition of dessert wines with a dry creation that delights the lovers of this grape. The color is yellow-green with an intense nose of honey, gooseberry jam, and ginger.
Fresh and aromatic, the wine is best consumed at a temperature of 8-10°C and goes perfectly with fresh cheeses, shrimp pasta, or your favorite food.
SERVE, Terra Romana Rosé, Fetească Neagră and Merlot
The SERVE winery is the first producer to create a dry rosé wine within the Terra Romana range. And the tradition still continues in this assemblage of Fetească Neagră and Merlot which impresses with a pale salmon color and a typical cherry and raspberry nose. The wine is fresh, with increased acidity and elegant texture. Served at a temperature of 8-10°C, it can be served on its own or with tuna salad or grilled salmon and asparagus.
Hermeziu Winery, C’est Soir, Busuioacă de Bohotin
Traditionally made as medium-sweet or sweet wine, the Busuioacă de Bohotin from this range is a dry wine that has a pale salmon color and the aromatic nose of grapes and rose petals. The body is elegant, ample with the typical aromas of raspberries and May cherries. Served at a temperature of 8-10°C, it can be paired with salads, fresh cheeses, chicken tikka masala, or with your favorite food.
Alira, Grand Vin, Fetească Neagră
The Fetească Neagră from the Grand Vin range has all the necessary elements to be called a wine with typicity and a wine with ageing potential for at least 10 years. The color is dark ruby, with a touch of garnet, followed by a bouquet of truffles, prunes, eucalyptus, and espresso foam. The body is full, round with a velvety texture and a long aftertaste with aromas of pepper, cherries, and dark chocolate.
Matured in oak barrels for 14 months, it is best decanted for at least one hour before consumption. The ideal serving temperature is 18°C and it pairs very well with wild boar in red wine sauce, sarmale with mutton, and beef in vine leaves, matured cheeses, or any favorite recipe of red meat served ‘blue’.
Davino, Flamboyant, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Fetească Neagră
Flamboyant is a red assemblage that has set a new standard in the Dealu Mare vineyard. The “Trio” is made in Bordeaux style, with the presence of Fetească Neagră along with two well-recognized varieties. The wine has an extraordinary aging potential and begins with an intense ruby red color and a well-defined nose of cedar, leather, freshly ground coffee beans, and blackcurrants.
The body is robust, with an elegant texture and imposing tannins. Serve at a temperature of 18°C, with at least one hour of aeration before consumption it goes well in the company of a veal chops in truffle and parmesan sauce, Black Angus beef tartare, or duck breast in blackcurrant sauce.
Carastelec, Carassia, Blanc de Blancs, Chardonnay
Made in entirety by Chardonnay in the traditional method, the sparkling wine from Carastelec delights us from the beginning with a pale golden yellow color and effervescent nose of biscuit, green apples, and apricots. The body is delicate, the bubble density is abundant, and the aftertaste is medium and elegant. Served at a temperature of 4-6°C, it can be served on its own or in the company of a shellfish salad, oysters, or white truffles.
Liliac, Nectar, Muscat Ottonel
It is said that any memorable feast must end with a memorable dessert. In this case we are talking about a ‘liquid dessert’ that impresses with an intense golden yellow color and an explosive nose of acacia honey, candied apricots, lychee, and passion fruit. Although it is an extremely sweet wine, the typical acidity of Transylvanian wines gives it balance and elegance. Served at a temperature of 9-11°C, it can be paired perfectly with quince tart, sweet and raisin pie, or with blue cheese like Roquefort or Blue Stilton.
Romanian wines in the neighborhood
No matter how much we write on the subject of Romanian wine, its story is not complete unless we try an exercise in imagination and organoleptic comparison with its neighbors, especially when it comes to comparing local wines with a similar wine market that ‘regenerated’ after decades of communism. And here we are talking about the world of wines from Hungary, Bulgaria and the Republic of Moldova.
Hungary is famous for its Tokaji region, where white dessert wines are made from grapes ‘attacked’ by noble mold (botrytis cinerea), giving them a very aromatic profile and a great ageing potential. It is a style of winemaking that remains unchanged for nearly half a millennium.
The Hungarians are so proud of it that they even decided to make references in their national anthem.
This is not at all strange considering that wine was a favorite of celebrities such as Stephen the Great, Louis XIV, Peter the Great, Napoleon III, Beethoven, Goethe and Liszt.
Sweet, aromatic, and sophisticated grape varieties such as Tămâioasa Românească or Grasă de Cotnari can be compared to Tokaji wine. Here, we also find Furmint, cultivated with very good results as a dry wine in the Miniş-Măderat vineyard. Another identical grape variety, but with a different name is Olaszrizling, generally known as Welschriesling, or Italian Riesling on Romanian terroir.
It is the most commonly planted grape in Hungary, mainly in the area of Lake Balaton. Although red wines are not a specialty in Hungary, Kékfrankos and Kadarka have a remarkable potential.
Going south of Romania, we come to the vine culture of the Thracian Depression and the Danube Plains of Bulgaria, which is constantly growing after the fall of communism in 1989. In 2007, like Romania, Bulgaria became a member of the European Union attracting European funds and a plethora of Western European investors, along with specialists such as Marc Dworkin and Michel Rolland.
Wineries such as Enira, Katarzyna, or Castra Rubra have simply revolutionized the winemaking system, creating masterpieces from international varieties such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Pinot Noir. Local varieties such as Mavrud, Rubin and Pamid are comparable to the Romanian red varieties in terms of quality, but totally opposite in personality.
Compared to Romania where white varieties predominate, the Bulgarians’ preference is for red wines. However, varieties such as Chardonnay, Viognier, Muscat Ottonel, and Sauvignon Blanc are grown with impressive results.
Once part of Romania, the former Bessarabia region, a former Soviet republic and now an autonomous state, the Republic of Moldova can be proud in referring to itself as one of the countries with the highest density of grapevines in the world.
Practically the whole country is one huge vineyard and more than a quarter of the population is involved in the wine industry. As a terroir, the Republic of Moldova has many advantages: it is located on the same latitude as Burgundy, it has a temperate-continental climate and is in close proximity to the Black Sea.
Due to a good tradition of relations with France, most varieties are of French origin, with predominant grape varieties such as Aligoté, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. One of the most popular varieties is the Georgian grape Rkatsiteli, along with Romanian varieties such as Rară Neagră and Fetească Neagră.
The ‘black pearl’ of the Republic of Moldova is the famous red assemblage called Negru de Purcari, made of Cabernet Sauvignon, Saperavi, and Rară Neagră, which can be compared in Romania with Davino Flamboyant, Alira Grand Vin Cuvée, or Cuvée Überland. The Republic is also famous for white wines with a lot of potential and sparkling wines. Not to mention the wineries of Cricova and Mileştii Mici, which are the Mecca and Medina for any connoisseur.
Photo credit: www.milestii-mici.md
The place of Romanian wines in the geographical context is unique, especially because it is closely linked to a continent that has made viticulture, wine production, and consumption part of its identity, whether as a form of ritual or for daily consumption. This makes wine practically a necessary luxury of Romania and of the old continent.
The history of wine in Romania
Wine and vines were present in this territory before it was even known as Romania. As everything began in the midst of history and we have few written sources, we can only speculate. The first evidence of wine production dates from the Neolithic period, more precisely from the Cucuteni Culture (5,500-2,700 BC).
Archaeological excavations discovered ceramic vessels containing traces of grape seeds and of wine. What is even more interesting is that along with grape seeds, coriander seeds were been discovered, which reminds us of the tradition of all ancient peoples who used various spices or herbs to ‘improve’ the quality of wine.
Photo credit: https://www.shorthistory.org
Later, the tradition of vineyards and wine experienced exponential growth during the period of our ancestors, the Dacians, who ruled the lands of present Romania and who were here before the arrival of the Roman Legions. In short, the Dacians were the local equivalent for Asterix and Obelix, later assimilated by the Roman population, the ‘blend’ between the two of them creating a unique core of Latinity.
What is remarkable is that wine was one of the main reasons why the Roman Empire was interested in the conquest and colonization of Dacia in 106 AD, evidenced by the Dacia Felix commemorative coin, issued on the order of Emperor Trajan in 112 AD, where grape clusters and wheatears were represented as symbols of wealth.
In their glorious days, the Dacians produced wine in considerable quantities, used for daily consumption, for religious rituals, or commercial purposes. Wine was used as a very valuable exchange currency and was probably as valuable as the Bitcoin is today.
Plato also mentions that the Dacians did not mix wine with water, unlike the Greeks – a detail that would surprise many of their descendants and loyal followers of the modern-day spritzer.
Many specialists and historians came to the conclusion that in that period the following varieties were contemporary with the Dacian ancestors: Feteasca Neagră, Crâmpoşie, Gordan and Braghină. The first two varieties of these are still being grown on local vineyards.
Another example of a grape variety still present today is Tămâioasa Românească, an aromatic assortment, originating from trade with the Greeks. Originating from the ‘Muscat family’ (more precisely Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains), the grape variety was adapted here 2,000 years ago. And it has been here ever since, developing its own personality, and is currently cultivated with spectacular results in the vineyards of Cotnari, Dealu Mare and Drăgăşani.
Although the Latin heritage is still present today in language, temperament, and daily routine, the Roman adventure ended in 207 AD after the Aurelian Retreat, as a result of the oppressive waves of nomads. However, viticulture and wine production developed steadily and spectacularly. The following centuries open a new chapter in the history of Romanian wine, in which Bacchus’ liquer becomes an essential ritual element in the worship of the Christian religion.
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It is the beginning of the early Middle Ages from which we have very few historical sources, and which stands out as a continuous struggle for survival against the migratory tribes and later the three great empires in the region: the Austro-Hungarian, the Russian and the Ottoman. Under the latter, the Romanian people maintained their identity through three essential elements: Latinity, Christianity, and wine.
Wine has always been a refuge in times of austerity, oppression, superstition, vassalship, torture, and military occupation, as a source of constant hope for better days. The Middle Ages were not only a dark period, full of war, but also one in which legendary ‘voivodes’ such as Vlad Ţepeş (Vlad the Impaler), Ştefan cel Mare (Stephen the Great), Mihai Viteazu (Michael the Brave) who managed to create periods of peace in which wine production reached moments of zenith.
Photo credit: https://www.coresibrasov.ro; https://www.europafm.ro
For example, Transylvania became a center of reference for wine development during the 12th century as a result of the colonization of the region by German crusaders who planted varieties that could have been Sylvaner or Riesling.
During this time in Moldova, native, authentic grape varieties such as Băbească Neagră and Zghihară de Huşi, which are still cultivated today, began to be discovered. But the jewel of the region is certainly the famous blend of white wine from the Cotnari region, also known as the ‘Voivod wine’, whose recipe is still kept by local producers and consists of Frâncuşă (20%), Fetească Albă (30%), Grasă de Cotnari (30%), and Busuioacă de Moldova (10%), an assortment known today as Tămâioasă Românească.
Taken separately, these grapes are unique in terms of aromas and texture, but together they create perhaps the most valuable legacy of the voivode Stephen the Great (1457-1504).
The Oltenia of those times stands out with a unique white assemblage of fruitiness, delicate texture, and freshness composed of Tămâioasă Românească, Crâmpoşie, Gordan, and Braghină. The first two grape varieties are still cultivated in the region today with very good examples. Red varieties included Negru Moale and Negru Vârtos, which unfortunately have been lost to history.
It is interesting that these varieties were found in Wallachia along with Băşicată and Gordin, two other varieties whose traces were lost more than a century ago.
However, through an exercise in imagination, we can dream about an autumn day during the harvest season in an abandoned vineyard, a few grape clusters forgotten by time, still producing on the cane a few lost grape bunches, waiting to be rediscovered and replanted…
At that time, both territoriality and administratively, Romania existed only on a concept level, being divided into three large separate regions: Transylvania, Wallachia, and Moldova, all under the influence of the Empires in the region.
The first union between Wallachia and Moldavia was achieved in 1859, and the Great Union of all three provinces was achieved at the end of the First World War in December 1918.
Returning to the story of wine, in 1862, the three provinces were cultivated with grapevines in an area approximately 100,000 hectares, an area that increased to 150,000 hectares by 1883.
Unfortunately, at the end of the 19th century, the phylloxera invasion compromised the vineyards throughout Europe. A simple vine attacking insect brought from North America as a result of international trade created a real ‘wine epidemic’, destroying, over the years, centuries of tradition.
That is why today the surviving grape varieties are called pre-phylloxera. In the area now known as Romania the ‘tragedy’ was first spotted in 1880 in Arad, and later officially identified in 1884 in the Dealu Mare vineyard.
Two solutions were used to save the Romanian varieties.
The first was hybridization between the American and the European grapevines, as through natural selection the American grapevine developed a ‘defensive system’ to combat phylloxera. But through hybridization, very poor quality grapevines were produced, for example Isabell or Siebel 1, whose production and marketing are now prohibited by law.
The second solution was to save the vineyards by grafting the phylloxera-resistant American vine rootstock and a native variety cutting. Thus, European and local viticulture was saved and we can still enjoy delicious wines made from Fetească Albă, Crâmpoşie, Grasă de Cotnari, Tămâioasă Românească, Galbenă de Odobeşti, Zghihară de Huşi, Băbească Neagră and Fetească Neagră.
Also during the same period, to replant the destroyed areas, foreign grape varieties such as Aligoté, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon were planted in the region for the very first time.
The passage of this crisis, the victorious end of the First World War, the Great Union and the consolidation of a prestigious European dynasty at the helm of Romania created an extremely stable climate favorable to the development of many fields.
In other words, the 1919-1939 interval can be considered the Romanian version of ‘la belle epoque’, which still awakens nostalgia. It was the period when wine experienced a glorious new chapter. It was a moment that has been marked by new traditions, wineries, sparkling wines and spirits, exports to Western Europe and the making of a tradition that will later be revived two decades after the fall of communism.
The end of the Second World War brings to Romania a period of uncertainty, leading to the establishment of communism and a radically changed social and political status quo.
It is the period Romania passes from constitutional monarchy to extreme left dictatorship, in which the cultivation of the grapevine and the production of wine become exclusively state policies. Any private business was suppressed and for almost 50 years Romania remained one of the main wine suppliers to the USSR.
In communist Romania, the emphasis was on production rather than quality. Most vineyards consisted of varieties with high productivity and resistance such as Muscat Ottonel, Chasselas, or Fetească Regală. Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot were chosen for red wines. From these were obtained medium sweet or sweet wines because the sugar could hide certain faults in the wine.
Obviously, most wines were of questionable quality and low in alcohol (11-12% ABV). And most were destined for export to the USSR, and the story is that no matter the grape variety all bottles were labeled and shipped as Chardonnay, being Russia’s favorite at the time.
However, there were some positive achievements during the communist period, such as obtaining memorable grape varieties such as Novac, Şarbă and Crâmpoşia Selecţionată (Selected Crâmpoşie), a superior version of the old Crâmpoşie.
Scroll up to the beginning of the article to read about Romania’s wine industry in the Post-communism period.
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