Chef of the Week: Chef Ali Clem, la Barbecue, Austin, TX

1. Can you tell us a little about your culinary journey? What first inspired you to become a chef, and what drew you to barbecue?

I started working in the restaurant industry 27 years ago and quickly fell in love with its fast-paced, high-energy environment. I began as a hostess and worked my way through nearly every front-of-house position before eventually finding myself in the back of the house, working in the kitchen and as an expo.

When I moved to Austin and had to completely start over, I took a job as a barista and another as a bartender in a fast-paced bar. After a few years behind the bar, I wanted to get my foot in the door of Austin’s restaurant community. About a year after moving to Austin, I started working with John Mueller, a legendary third-generation pitmaster, and knew that barbecue was where I wanted to be.

I have always loved to cook and grew up in a household where my mom cooked dinner for our family at least five nights a week. Those creative, home-cooked meals are where I first fell in love with cooking. I was drawn to barbecue as I learned the craft, experimenting with different cuts of meat, seasonings, and smoking techniques. I love how creative you can be with barbecue and that there are endless recipes to develop, refine, and cook.

2. La Barbecue has become one of Austin’s most celebrated barbecue destinations. What do you think has been the key to its success? 

Consistency is something I preach every single day, from our meats and sides to our house-made pickles. I’m incredibly fortunate to have a team that shares the same passion and commitment to quality. Every person here takes pride in what we do, and we work together to make every meal the best it can be.

Our goal is simple: whether it’s your first visit or your fiftieth, you should have the same great experience every time you walk through our doors.

3. How would you describe your approach, and what makes your barbecue distinctive? 

I like to keep things simple while continuing to push the boundaries of barbecue by experimenting with different cooking techniques. We cook hot and fast instead of following the traditional low-and-slow approach. That’s how I learned, and over the years I’ve refined a method that produces meat with the flavor, texture, and appearance of something that’s been cooking for 12 or more hours.

We cook hot and fast instead of following the traditional low-and-slow approach.

That nontraditional approach is at the heart of what we do and has been applied to many of our most popular menu items, including our brisket, pork ribs, beef ribs, and pulled pork. It challenges expectations while staying true to the quality and craftsmanship that great barbecue is all about.

4. Texas barbecue is having a global moment. How have you seen the craft evolve over the past decade, and where do you think it’s headed next?

I’ve absolutely seen barbecue evolve over the years. Pitmasters are constantly experimenting with different cuts of meat, sauces, flavors, and techniques, and that’s what keeps it exciting. There’s always something new to explore, and it keeps people coming back to see what can be smoked next.

5. Smoking meat is often described as equal parts science and instinct. How do you balance consistency with the intuition that comes from years behind the pit?

Intuition is a huge part of cooking barbecue. We don’t use thermometers when cooking our briskets—we cook by feel and by sight. You learn to recognize when a brisket is ready for the next step, and while that takes years of experience to develop, it’s incredibly rewarding once you have it.

At the same time, there is a real science behind barbecue, especially when it comes to fire management. Controlling the fire is one of the most important parts of smoking meat. Understanding airflow, temperature, fuel, and timing is what allows you to produce consistent results.

6. Is there a particular cut of meat that you think is underrated or especially challenging to master? What makes it so rewarding?

7. Running a world-renowned barbecue restaurant means incredibly long days and high demand. How do you keep your team motivated while maintaining quality every single day?

We’re open five days a week, and one thing that’s important to me is making sure everyone has two consecutive days off, with at least one of those days falling during the week. I want my team to have time to recharge and enjoy a healthy work-life balance. Many of my crew members love to travel, and I always encourage them to take the time they need to do that.

I also enjoy cooking family meals for the team. It’s a chance for everyone to step away from the line, sit down together, and enjoy something other than barbecue. Those meals bring us together and remind us that we’re more than coworkers, we’re a team.

8. Is there one item on la Barbecue’s menu that you feel best represents your philosophy as a chef? What makes it special?

We’re best known for our brisket. Here in Texas, brisket is king, and every pitmaster has their own approach. Over the years, I’ve simplified our process so we only handle each brisket three times: we load it, we wrap it, and we pull it. Keeping the process simple allows us to focus on what really matters, the fire. In my opinion, mastering the fire is the key to cooking a consistently great brisket.

9. What’s one piece of advice or one simple technique that home cooks can use to noticeably improve their barbecue or grilling?

Start with a cut of meat you’re familiar with and don’t overthink it. Focus on learning one thing well before moving on to something more challenging. When you’re cooking on a smoker, consistency is everything. Keep your temperature steady, be patient, and let the process do the work. Mastering the fundamentals will take you much further than chasing complicated techniques.

10. Outside your own restaurant, what’s the most memorable meal you’ve had recently, and why did it stand out? 

I was recently in Denver for a pop-up collaboration at Hey Kiddo and had the opportunity to dine at Chef Kelly Whitaker’s two-Michelin-star restaurant, The Wolf’s Tailor. The menu changes with the seasons and highlights ingredients grown from the restaurant’s own gardens. During my visit, the tasting menu centered around masa, and it was one of the best meals I’ve ever had.

Every dish was not only beautifully presented but also incredibly thoughtful, with flavors that were balanced and intentional. One bite that has really stayed with me was the blue corn masa blinis topped with dressed caviar. They were warm, light, and perfectly fluffy, a flawless bite that I still think about and talk about often.

11. What advice would you give to aspiring pitmasters who dream of opening their own barbecue restaurant? 

12. Finally, what exciting projects or plans do you have coming up that you’d like our readers to know about? 

We’ve been doing a lot of traveling this year and are excited to be spending more time in the UK, where we’ll be participating in several events throughout the year. We’ll continue bringing la Barbecue on the road through festivals, pop-ups, and restaurant takeovers across both the United States and the UK.

I’m also excited to continue growing our line of seasonings and sauces. They’re currently available at la Barbecue, and soon they’ll be hitting grocery store shelves in the Austin area, making it even easier for people to bring a taste of la Barbecue home.

Chef Ali Clem
la Barbecue | Instagram
2401 East Cesar Chavez Street, Austin, TX