Microplane (for grating zests)

Uncut piping bag

Nonstick mini madeleine pan

Small sieve

Melt the butter, brown sugar, and honey in a medium pot over low heat. Stir gently with a heatproof spatula to ensure that nothing burns. Keep the mixture warm over very low heat, or reheat if necessary.*

Combine the granulated sugar, salt, flour, and baking powder in a large bowl and mix well with a whisk. Form a well in the center of the dry ingredients and add the eggs one by one, whisking to incorporate each before adding the next.±

When the eggs are fully incorporated and the batter is smooth, slowly whisk in the butter mixture. Whisk in the lemon and orange zests. The batter will still be runny and similar in consistency to cake batter. Cover with plastic wrap pressed directly onto the surface of the batter, to pre- vent a skin from forming. Refrigerate overnight to rest.‡

* Using different types of honey is a great way to naturally flavor madeleines. I love acacia and wildflower honeys.

± Use room temperature eggs to avoid cooling down the batter. If the batter is too cold, the butter may congeal when you add it.

‡ Many recipes containing baking powder do well to rest overnight. This helps with rising, which is especially important for the madeleine—a pastry that puffs up in the center when it bakes.

Place a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C) for conventional or 350°F (175°C) for convection.§

Using a rubber spatula, place 2 large scoops of batter in a piping bag so that it is one-third full. Push the batter down toward the tip of the bag.

Cut an opening about 1⁄2 inch (1.25 cm) straight across the tip of the bag.

Hold the nonstick cooking spray about 4 inches (10 cm) away from a nonstick mini madeleine pan and spray evenly in all the cavities.

Holding the piping bag at a 90-degree angle about 1⁄2 inch (1.25 cm) above the pan, pipe the madeleine batter into the cavities so that it fills each about three-quarters of the way to the top.

Bake the madeleines for 2 to 21⁄2 minutes on the center rack. When you see the batter puff up in the center, rotate the pan 180 degrees. Bake for 2 to 21⁄2 minutes more, until the sides of the madeleines are golden blond and the center has set.

Unmold immediately. Bang the corner or sides of the madeleine pan against your work surface so that the fresh madeleines drop out.**

§ In general for baking pastries, set your oven to convection if the option is available. This allows the heat to flow more evenly. It’s an ideal setting because it helps pastries bake evenly on all sides.

**If you find that the madeleines stick to the mold, for the next batch, try spraying a bit more cooking spray. Also, keeping the mold clean and washing it thoroughly with a soft sponge after use will also prevent the madeleines from sticking.

Using a small sieve, sprinkle confectioners’ sugar evenly over the fresh-baked madeleines. Eat immediately (do not wait more than even a few minutes!).

Madeleines are good only when freshly baked. Do not attempt to store them. However, you can keep the batter in a closed airtight container, with plastic wrap pressed onto the surface, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.